“Clean beauty” has become quite the catchphrase lately. The question is – is it a myth or is there some facts to it? None of us want toxic chemicals in our bodies. But here’s the reality: even the beef tallow you’re slathering on your skin likely came from beef whose tallow wasn’t stored properly, or were raised with antibiotics, or were raised inhumanely. So let’s all keep an open mind as we dive in!
“With the rise in demand for “natural” products in skincare, an increasing number of products are being marketed as “natural” or “clean,” calling into question what these terms really mean. These terms can be used as a marketing ploy by the cosmetic industry to deem synthetic or lab-created ingredients as “toxic” or “chemicals” that are harmful to the skin. The words “clean” and “natural” are unregulated marketing terms that can be used to describe any product free of ingredients deemed unacceptable by a particular company” (Russell et al, 2024).
First Things First: Definitions.
Skincare products that are considered “clean” will exclude ingredients that could potentially cause cancer or harm any body system. This term is very broad and often is confused with “natural,” “nontoxic,” and “vegan.” Let’s set the record straight! The term “natural” is ambiguous – there is no official definition; therefore ANYone can put “natural” on their label to use as a marketing scheme. So don’t fall for it just because it says it is “natural.”
“Vegan” products will not include substances that come from an animal source such as keratin, lanolin, or collagen. Clearly that eliminates the beef tallow 😉
ORGANIC is defined by the USDA as ingredients not developed with certain pesticides, antibiotics, and artificial growth factors. Of note, it is NOT a safety program and organic ingredients does not mean that they are automatically “safe.” Now let’s chat about the definition of “clean beauty” – the definition will vary depending on who you reference. Target’s list of “clean” compared to the magazine Allure’s (who runs a Clean Beauty campaign) and to Ulta’s are VERY different.
The Cleveland Clinic also had some helpful definitions:
- Fragrance-free: These products don’t contain natural or synthetic fragrances. But “fragrance-free” isn’t the same as “unscented,” which often means that chemicals have been added to cover up the smell of other ingredients.
- Hypoallergenic: This term indicates that a product is made with ingredients that are unlikely to cause allergic reactions — but it isn’t necessarily reliable. The FDA’s website explains, “There are no Federal standards or definitions that govern the use of the term ‘hypoallergenic.’ The term means whatever a particular company wants it to mean.” (Yikes.)
- Non-toxic: This catch-all word is essentially a marketing term meant to convey the idea that a product is safe.
- Organic: Organic products use ingredients that are grown without synthetic fertilizers, pesticides or other chemicals. (Hang tight, and we’ll delve deeper into this term in the next section.)
- Paraben-free: These hormone-disrupting chemicals, which mimic estrogen in your body, are used as preservatives in many skin care products and cosmetics. They’ve been associated with health concerns like infertility and cancer.
- PFAS-free: Per- and poly-fluoroalkyl substances (PFAS) are hormone-disrupting chemicals that can affect your sleep, blood pressure, metabolism and more.
- Phthalate-free: Phthalates are hormone-disrupting chemicals that are sometimes used as dissolving agents in skin care products and cosmetics. They’re associated with decreased sperm quality, among other concerns.
- Sulfate-free: Also known as surfactants, sulfates are chemicals that make products lather or foam.
Commonly Mentioned “Natural” Products Being Used by My Patients
In a relatively small city of 10,000 people in eastern North Carolina, many patients are interested in natural options for their skincare. Many cite a desire for simplicity, others desire a cheaper alternative, and yet others are overwhelmed by the choices available on the market so they choose what everyone else is doing on social media. These below are the ones I’ve been hearing the most buzz about in my chair. I’m not necessarily endorsing these ingredients/products, but I think it’s important for a dermatology/aesthetics provider to be aware of what our patients are using and why, and be able to advise them on what the literature says. I have to say, my research on this topic was limited until putting the info together for this blog post!
- Beef Tallow – This ingredient has baffled me from the beginning, honestly. It’s also been polarizing two parties – skin care experts like esthticians and regular lay people trying to use the most natural options for their skin (some people call them “granola” or “crunchy” 😀 )… Russell and colleagues (2024) stated that their extensive literature review yielded only 19 viable studies on beef tallow & skin and found that, “more research is needed that is geared towards tallow as a cosmetic product in humans.” What we know is that beef tallow is primarily composed of oleic acid, palmitic acid, and stearic acid, all of which may increase fatty acid concentration in the skin – this is a good thing for people with dry skin, eczema, or psoriasis.
- “No literature review articles could be found that summarized the studies conducted with tallow on human skin” (Russell et al, 2024).
- Beef tallow is “not reef-safe and is detrimental to marine life,” therefore not environmentally friendly (Russell et al, 2024).
- Although in their literature review “tallow was found to offer hydrating and moisturizing properties,” Russell & colleagues found that “other compounds that were studied in comparative studies such as pumpkin seed oil and linoleic acid were found to offer superior hydrating and moisturizing benefits than tallow” (2024).
- Coconut Oil – I have had a LOT of patients tell me this is their moisturizer, and honestly it’s made me cringe. Although it’s been shown to improve skin barrier function (Evangelista et al., 2014), have high antioxidant activity (Ahmad et al., 2017), induce fibroblast cell growth and proliferation (Ahmad et al., 2017), and have a role in photoprotection (Kaur and Saraf, 2010), coconut oil is highly comedogenic. This means it will clog pores, worsen acne-prone skin, and create blackheads, whiteheads, and breakouts. There have even been many reports of folliculitis (inflamed or infected hair follicles) with coconut oil. So this natural ingredient is a no-no unless you have severely dry skin. Also there are better options out there that will penetrate to the dermis better than coconut oil.
- Frankincense – I’ve had quite a few patients tell me lately that they’re using this essential oil on their face. Admittedly, I’ve been judgmental and skeptical. I must say, the research is scarce on the use of this essential oil on the skin. However, what is out there is quite promising. Alradaddi & Shin (2022) cite studies showing frankincense’s antimicrobial and antifungal properties, and its benefits in concerns such as “acne and blemish-prone skin, aging skin, and dry skin, among others, making it particularly beneficial to acne-prone skin. It alleviates oily and acne-prone skin and provides lipids for aged skin… Frankincense EO promotes new cell generation, maintains skin elasticity, and soothes dry and chapped skin [151]. It lessens or prevents the appearance of sunspots, age spots, and splotches, thus evening out the skin tone [152]. It reduces skin redness and irritation, further promoting an even skin tone [153]. It has been used as a skin remedy for bruises and infected sores [154]. It is a potent antiwrinkle and antiaging agent [155] and can be used for treating psoriasis, eczema [49,156], and skin diseases and as an antihair-loss remedy [38,50,51,53,54].” Further, Yan & colleagues (2023) cite an article in which frankincense showed the acceleration of “the transdermal absorption of other actives, by enhancing the ingredients transfer from epidermis to dermal capillaries through skin blood flow, which makes it a great transdermal permeation agent in the dermatologic field.”
- The downside of this essential oil is that it can irritate the skin, according to some studies.
- Another concern: waste. “Frankincense is of high value and currently some of its species are facing the threat of extinction” (Yan et al, 2023).
- Last concern: not enough data and research to prove that it’s safe. It may be effective but its safety hasn’t yet been equally proven.
Other “Natural” Ingredients that are Proven to Work
Now let’s talk about some truly natural ingredients that I have come across during my studies over the years as well as some being highlighted at dermatology & aesthetic conferences I’ve recently attended:
- Bakuchiol – similar to retinol in terms of efficacy but with better results on hyperpigmentation and with much fewer side effects like stinging and irritation. “The main skin bioactivities of bakuchiol include antifungal, antibacterial, antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, antiaging, depigmenting, and anticancer” (Mascarenhas-Melo et al, 2024). “However, this medicinal herb faces endangerment,” Filipa Mascarenhas-Melo & colleagues state in their comprehensive review of bakuchiol. This has led to the push for chemical synthesis of the molecule, which is seemingly an antithesis to the all-natural cause. Make sure yours comes from a natural source if you’re wanting to maintain the “natural” route.
- Polyglutamic Acid – powerful humectant that can absorb up to 4000-5000 times its weight in water. Has “ability to moisturize the skin, improve skin elasticity, and act as a whitening agent… PGA formulations promoted cell growth in fibroblast and keratinocyte cells [which are the progenators for collagen synthesis]… exhibited a significant photoprotective effect against light-induced damage and improved skin texture, elasticity, and collagen content over time… enhance[s] skin barrier function… helps to prevent the formation of wrinkles, fine lines, and other signs of aging… helps to improve skin texture, tone, and overall radiance… [improves hyperpigmentation by] effectively inhibit[ing] tyrosinase activity and melanogenesis” (Serra et al, 2024). Evidence shows that it stays superficially located on the skin which can give a dewy, “glass-skin” look, but despite its incredible ability to hold moisture, it cannot go down into the dermis like medical grade hyaluronic acid can (like Hydrinity). So it’s not great for deeper wrinkles or aging skin.
- Vitamin C – especially tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate, which is a newer lip soluble version of Vit C that is stable, easily absorbed by the skin and well tolerated in sensitive skin. Known as ascorbic acid, it reduces the oxidation of cells, inhibits tyrosinase activity (which decreases melanin activity/production), promotes the making of collagen, decreases skin damage, and thus reduces hyperpigmentation.
- Kojic acid – a natural organic acid that is a by-product of certain species of fungi, such as Aspergillus and Penicillium. Kojic acid has proven to be effective in the treatment of sun damage and hyperpigmentation. It is a major tyrosinase inhibitor but is unstable and degrades easily. A new derivative, Kojic Acid Dipalmitate, seems to be very promising (Ayuhastuti et al, 2024). Also, compared to some of the other tyrosinase inhibitors listed here, it is less effective.
- Cysteamine 5% – naturally occurring byproduct from bacteria, also the end result of when our own bodies break down coenzyme A. Studies have found this as an effective treatment of post-acne PIH, with similar efficacy to the accepted treatment of PIH, i.e., hydroquinone cream, with much fewer risk factors (Ahmadi et al, 2024). “Cysteamine is an aminothiol naturally present in cells of the human body as an antioxidant resulting from the degradation of Coenzyme A… Topical stabilized cysteamine can be regarded to as one of the most potent treatments available for hyperpigmentation disorders [especially melasma] in humans” (Desai et al, 2021). There’s a LOT of chatter about how well this works on hyperpigmentation with very little side effects seen (skin irritation is seen if the skin is washed 1 hour prior to application, so usually it’s recommended to apply first thing in the morning and allow to sit for 15-30 minutes, then wash off… this inconvenience alone has made it more of a difficult sell).
- Thiamidol 0.2% – derived from various plant extracts. When compared to hydroquinone for hyperpigmentation, it was more effective than 2% HQ in a study and as effective as 4% HQ with less side effects! A literature review published in the Journal of the American Academy of Dermatology in 2023 found that all studies found thiamidol to provide statistically significant improvements to hyperpigmentation conditions, including facial hyperpigmentation, melasma, post- inflammatory hyperpigmentation, and UV-induced hyperpigmentation (Klein et al, 2023).
- Agastache Mexicana – reduces hyperpigmentation, reduces inflammation, restores skin temp, & restores skin barrier function. Found in Hydrinity’s Restorative HA Serum and their Vivid Brightening Cream.
- Prickly pear extract – humectant rich in antioxidants, vitamins, and minerals – found in Colorescience’s Barrier Pro 1-Step Cleanser
- Pink pomelo extract – gentle sloughing for gentle, mild exfoliation – found in Colorescience’s Barrier Pro 1-Step Cleanser
- Snow mushroom – exceptional ability to hold & retain water in the skin, unique prebiotic properties to help balance skin’s microbiome – found in Colorescience’s Barrier Pro Moisturizer
- Squalane – previously harvested from sharks’ livers, now derived from sugar cane in the products Elevated Aesthetics carries. This humectant acts to restore the skin’s lipid barrier, and is found in Hydrinity’s Renewing HA Serum, Colorescience’s Barrier Pro Moisturizer, and skinbetter science’s Mystro Active Balance Serum, Trio Rebalancing Moisture Treatment, Trio Luxe, & AlphaRet retinoid products.
- Gogi Berry Extract – promotes structural integrity of the dermis (increases LAMC 1 & decreases MMP-1), acts as a free radical scavenger (anti-aging), & decreases production of UVA-induced Interleukin-8 (a proinflammatory cytokine). Found in Colorescience’s Barrier Pro Moisturizer.
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Kakadu Plum – incredible antioxidant found in Australia. One plum = same amount of Vit C of 100 oranges! This botanical ingredient is in Hydrinity’s Hydri-C (Vit C moisturizer product) & their Restorative HA Serum, as well as skinbetter science’s Even Tone Correcting Serum.
In Conclusion…
Because there’s so much we don’t know, both sides I feel will be at odds for a very long time. It is my duty as a medical provider first and foremost to “do no harm.” That line is gray when it comes to “natural” and “nontoxic” ingredients & products because there’s so much we don’t know. I am open-minded, and becoming moreso the more research I do in this field. My goal is to offer botanical/natural products that have PROVEN themselves in clinical studies with real humans, not mice, rabbits, or other animals. Most of the studies on these natural ingredients/products to date have not been readily studied on our human skin in a controlled environment. Anecdotal evidence is like the game telephone; word of mouth often exaggerates the original message intended. I’m not saying that’s what has happened in this case, but I want both sides to keep their minds open to this fact. I love this movement towards natural – I just hope the science catches up before it’s all written off as hype.
References:
Ahmadi K, Miri A, Bizaval Z, Sepaskhah M, Ranjbar S, Bagheri Z, Kasraee B. Assessing the Effectiveness of Stabilized Cysteamine 5% Cream Compared to Hydroquinone 4%/Ascorbic Acid 3% Combination Cream in Treating Acne-induced Post-inflammatory Hyperpigmentation: A Randomized, Controlled Study. J Clin Aesthet Dermatol. 2024 Apr;17(4):37-41. https://pmc.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/articles/PMC11022844/
Alraddadi BG, Shin H-J. Biochemical Properties and Cosmetic Uses of Commiphora myrrha and Boswellia serrata. Cosmetics. 2022; 9(6):119. https://www.mdpi.com/2079-9284/9/6/119
Ayuhastuti A, Syah ISK, Megantara S, Chaerunisaa AY. Nanotechnology-Enhanced Cosmetic Application of Kojic Acid Dipalmitate, a Kojic Acid Derivate with Improved Properties. Cosmetics. 2024; 11(1):21. https://www.mdpi.com/2079-9284/11/1/21
Desai S, Hartman C, Grimes P, Shah S. Topical Stabilized Cysteamine as a New Treatment for Hyperpigmentation Disorders: Melasma, Post-Inflammatory Hyperpigmentation, and Lentigines. J Drugs Dermatol. 2021 Dec 1;20(12):1276-1279. https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/34898155/
Fernandes A, Rodrigues P, Pintado M, Tavaria F. A systematic review of natural products for skin applications: Targeting inflammation, wound healing, and photo-aging. Phytomedicine. 2023; 115. https://www.sciencedirect.com/science/article/pii/S094471132300185X
Greenzaid JD, Friedman A, Sodha, P. The Use of Bakuchiol in Dermatology: A Review of In Vitro and In Vivo Evidence. J Drugs Dermatol. 2022;21(6):624-629. https://jddonline.com/articles/the-use-of-bakuchiol-in-dermatology-a-review-of-in-vitro-and-in-vivo-evidence-S1545961622P0624X/
Mascarenhas-Melo, F., Ribeiro, M.M., Kahkesh, K.H. et al. Comprehensive review of the skin use of bakuchiol: physicochemical properties, sources, bioactivities, nanotechnology delivery systems, regulatory and toxicological concerns. Phytochem Rev 23, 1377–1413 (2024). https://link.springer.com/article/10.1007/s11101-024-09926-y
Rubin CBBrod B. Natural Does Not Mean Safe—The Dirt on Clean Beauty Products. JAMA Dermatol. 2019;155(12):1344–1345. https://jamanetwork.com/journals/jamadermatology/fullarticle/2751513
Russell MF, Sandhu M, Vail M, Haran C, Batool U, Leo J. Tallow, Rendered Animal Fat, and Its Biocompatibility With Skin: A Scoping Review. Cureus. 2024 May 24;16(5):e60981. https://pmc.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/articles/PMC11193910/
Serra M, Gudina E, Botelho C, Teixeira JA, Barros AN. Polyglutamate: Unleashing the Versatility of a Biopolymer for Cosmetic Industry Applications. Cosmetics. 2024; 11(3):76. https://www.mdpi.com/2079-9284/11/3/76
, , , et al. Potent pigmentation inhibitory activity of incensole-enriched frankincense volatile oil-identification, efficacy and mechanism. J Cosmet Dermatol. 2024; 23: 244–255. https://onlinelibrary.wiley.com/doi/10.1111/jocd.15887
